We love hotels...
Shiny new hotels where we can be one of the first to lay our heads. But there's a special allure to a classic, old world hotel dripping with style and glamour. Those are the truly special ones, the ones we call the grande dames.
The term "grande dame hotel" sounds romantic and captivating, but exactly what does it mean? By definition, any dictionary will tell you a grande dame is usually an elderly woman of dignified or aristocratic bearing. If you’re a Downton Abbey fan, you know the Dowager Countess. She was unquestionably, a grande dame. And since mankind has always referred to her greatest creations like ships and buildings in the feminine, the term is most appropriate in referencing these magnificent old hotels.
A grande dame hotel is iconic and no matter her age, the most important and most famous hotel in town. Her lobby is a hub for socializing and socialites. A bustling space with the sounds of big band playing in the background, muffled only by the clang of martini glasses and chatter. It’s a place of seeing and being seen, and where hands discretely rise to obscure the lips as the juiciest of stories are whispered.
Speaking of juicy stories, all these dames have volumes of tales to tell. They’re often the setting of infamous love affairs, movies or novels and their guest lists are a who’s who of the famous, both historic and new. Milestones upon milestones have been celebrated within their walls from weddings, to anniversaries to birthdays and even successful windfalls of insider trading deals. The goings on are as complex and interesting as their architecture and the saying “they don’t build them like they used to”, fits to a T.
If all this glamour and intrigue appeals to you, where can you experience a grande dame for yourself? Fortunately, we are blessed with several of these beauties throughout the world and many here in America. A few of our favorites…
The Breakers - Palm Beach, FL
The Breakers’ reputation precedes it. This gilded resort, first built in 1896, resembles a Renaissance palace, and she’s seen more than her fair share of American royalty over the years. Andrew Carnegie, J.P. Morgan, William Randolph Hearst, and a handful of Astors, Rockefellers, and Vanderbilts have all walked the halls at this posh palace. No other hotel in Palm Beach can come close to matching the luxury found at this legendary resort.
The Plaza – New York City
This New York beauty personifies luxury and has carved out a prominent place in 20th-century culture. Truman Capote threw his famous Black and White Ball here. In the movie North by Northwest, Cary Grant was apprehended by spies in the hotel’s famous Oak Bar; and F. Scott Fitzgerald staged part of The Great Gatsby here. When The Plaza first opened its permanent residences for purchase, Mr. and Mrs. Alfred Vanderbilt were the first to call her home.
The Langham, London
The Langham opened in 1865 and is considered Europe's first grand hotel. It is the birthplace of High Tea which was originally served by a lady-in-waiting to Queen Victoria. The hotel reopened in 2009 after a $400 million dollar refurbishment. Celebrities who have been drawn to The Langham over the years include Oscar Wilde, Winston Churchill and Diana, Princess of Wales.
Whether you lay your head upon their pillows or simply visit for a drink in their famous lobby lounges, these ladies are worth a visit. Then you can say you’ve been a part of a legend and added a bit of your story to theirs. A toast to the grande dames; May they live on.
The Hottest Luxury Resort Amenity.
Every tiny detail matters when you’re a hotel or resort trying to stand out in the luxury market. Surely, these days will go down in history, written for all future generations to read about, the times of the great “Hotel Wars”. But these wars didn’t bring about doom and destruction, they ushered in a new level of luxury and pampering.
Already, we’ve endured (and enjoyed) “Toiletry Wars”. Those tiny bottles of Bvlgari, Hermes and L’Occitaine containing the finest ingredients to pamper our hair and skin. More than our fair share has come home after a few days of playing “hide the soap” to make housekeeping think we were out of toiletries, scoring a few extra. And then there were “Mattress Wars”. Oh blissful, blissful sleep. How we’ve loved hotels battling it out offering everything from $10,000 adjustable beds in our rooms to pillows with 4 firmness levels of French goose down to choose from with Italian sheets by Frette, Sferra and Yves Delorme, arguably the world’s finest.
But the latest and the hottest trend in luxury lodgings? Welcome to the Canine Ambassador Wars. Yep, hotels have truly gone to the dogs these days by employing adorable, noble, well trained furry faces to be the de facto embodiment of all that is wonderful and to bring a little “dog magic” to your stay. At resorts costing upwards of $500 Million to build, big paws are needed for this job. Their job is to simply to be a dog and by using their dog magic, that makes them the most popular and beloved staffers on property.
Before we get to what these dogs really do and why they’re there, how does it all work? Do the dogs just live there and have free rein to raid the kitchen at night and take a swim in the pools at leisure? No. We learned about it all on a visit to the Montage Deer Valley, in Park City, Utah.
The Montage is a mountain castle in the summertime and an ice palace in the winter. Ruling over this kingdom are Monty and Jonas, two Bernese Mountain Dogs with paws like the platters at a Golden Corral Buffet. We got some time to sit down and visit with Siri Zakaras who worked in accounting to learn more. Aside from her “regular” job, Siri took the mantle of also being handler to the boys. Monty and Jonas are actually owned by one of the hotels managing partners. They lived and slept in his home each night but came to work just like you or I would every day. Much of their office time was spent napping beneath Siri’s feet while she crunched numbers, but several times a day, they host meet and greets in the lobby, kids club, and their favorite…. free time on the resort’s grand lawn. What a joy it was to watch these two majestic dogs run free across a snowy field in wild abandon, rolling in the white stuff, chasing each other and letting visiting children join in their winter games. Snow balls, fur balls, no matter how you look at it, it was just a magical scene. And in essence, that’s the point. That’s the dog magic, a moment was created that will be remembered. Suddenly, you aren’t just having a nice stay, you’ve become endeared and emotionally attached to that time, that place and those dogs.
It’s not just the kids getting in on the dog magic either. While chatting in the lobby, we watched the high class, jet-set, mink coat wearing types strolling in, looking all serious and a bit aloof, instantly fall to the ground, dropping everything in their hands to roll around on the floor squealing baby talk with a dog they’ve never met. Dog magic.
Luxury hotels guests aren’t the only ones reaping the benefits of this Ambassador Dog magic. Siri, and many other handlers like her, are certified with the pups as therapy teams. Visiting hospitals, children’s facilities and veterans groups, the dog magic is spread throughout the community to those who really, need it the most.
A few of our other favorite hotels for a little Ambassador Dog magic are:
XV Beacon, Boston—Heidi, a Bernese Mountain Dog, charms the weary business traveler and calms the big city bustle right out of you the minute you come through the door.
Ritz-Carlton Reynolds Plantation, Georgia – Dooley the chocolate Labrador might be the laziest but most noble of them all. Sleeping most of his day away on a huge bed behind the concierge desk, he loves to be relocated around the resort, attending to his duties while being pushed on a luggage cart by the bellmen.
The Montage Palmetto Bluff, South Carolina – Four. That’s right, four English Labradors named New, May, River and Cooper, all named for local bodies of water wait to show you what a perfect Southern porch dog is all about.
Ritz-Carlton Bachelor Gulch, Colorado – Home to Belle and Bachelor, two more stunning Bernese Mountain dogs charming everyone in this former silver mining village now Colorado mountain playground.
No matter where you visit when you enjoy your fist Canine Ambassador dog on vacation, when your trip has come to a close, years later looking back, you may not remember how that fine soap smelled, or how high the thread count was in those Italian sheets, but you’re going to remember those dogs, and a little spot in your heart will melt when you think about how they made you feel. And with a smile now crept up on your face, there you’ll still feel after all this time a little bit of that dog magic. It’s real.
I plan travel for a living.
Booking myself a research trip to Havana, Cuba would surely be a cake walk. With tourism opportunities expanding for Americans, I wanted to go down and tour various hotels, try different excursion agencies and set up relationships for my clients’ future trips. I soon discovered, the term “Island Time” in Cuba is on a different level. Yes, the typical lackadaisical speed of islanders is at play but when the businesses you’re dealing with can only get online 2-3 times a week, planning is a challenge. A custom trip to Cuba requires patience and the ability to go without all I’s dotted and T’s crossed.
Up to a few days before going, I had considering scrapping it altogether. Changing US Government regulations paired with general frustration over making plans official, it seemed almost not worth it. I had a looming sense this could be a disaster of a trip but in the end, we went…though hesitantly.
After checking in to our hotel, the dazzling Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski la Habana whose lengthy name is as grand as she is, we decided to stroll around a bit. I don’t hide my gringo very well and almost instantly was sucked into conversation offering anything from black market booze, cigars or “companionship” of many varieties, all “just over here in my cousin’s place”. Ditching the offer, more came, every 10 steps it seemed and all “in my cousin’s place”. Perhaps there really is a place called, “My Cousin’s Place”, but I doubt it. Overwhelmed, I thought as I looked out on the decaying city that I would spend my week going no farther than sight of my hotel haven.
Fortunately, we stuck with our plans to meet Frank, a local tour guide to show us the city. Frank’s perfect English in tow, he immediately explained, “nothing in Cuba is as it first appears”. For instance, the streets may look unsafe at first, but they are not. His statement set the tone for the rest of our trip and he walked us through neighborhoods we’d never dream of exploring, pointing out fascinating details one after the other. “Can we walk here on our own, at night” we asked Frank. “Yep. Just be smart like any city you visit”, he said.
One minute we were in a place that appeared as though a bomb had been dropped. The next a cobblestone paved European style square lined with cafés, music and artisans peddling goods in the shadow of a cathedral. The new Cuba, Frank explained, is seeing a surge in the bohemian, artisan culture and independent businesses are popping up. Every one of them lives or dies on tourist dollars.
My biggest fear in visiting Cuba was that I wouldn’t be able to connect to the place and the people. So, we peppered Frank with question after question, trying to make a connection and get a sense of understanding. We talked about his life, his thoughts on the current government and the historic revolution when Fidel took power. What did it mean to him? What did he think of the US involvement? Mind you, Frank is one voice in a country of over 11 million. But his voice matters. All we know is what we hear in the US media so we took this Havana natives’ words in like a sponge.
Perhaps the moment I’ll remember most was as we walked along one of those decaying streets. Frank pointed out a painting with a bench below and said how much it meant to him. He passes it often on his tours. The painting is a Cuban flag done in faded grey and charcoal tones; Not the vivid colors of the actual flag. And on the stone bench below he says, there are usually 2 or 3 people sleeping. For him, it’s a symbol. The flag of the country he loves, dulled in its grandeur, hovering over the sleeping people. We would soon discover for ourselves just how symbolic that image was...
Frank had saved our trip with his insight into the overwhelming city of Havana. Truthfully, we would have loved having him along for the rest of our trip and you can do just that if you plan ahead. Although we didn’t have him along for the rest of our explorations, his words stuck with us everywhere we went and shaped the way we interpreted what we encountered.
If someone asks you for money saying they’re hungry or homeless in Cuba, take it with a grain of salt as they likely aren’t. The government, no matter what your opinion of it, does provide basic food and housing for every single Cuban. It may not be the best food and the loveliest of home, but they’re provided for all.
Discrimination exists in Cuba but not for the color of your skin. Many businesses are there strictly for the tourists and very few Cubans are allowed to patronize them, much less afford what’s on offer. The sparkling new shopping area by our hotel was referred to as “The Museum” by locals, selling a Canon camera for $7,000 and a Bulgari watch for $10,000. Locals earning an average government salary of $25 a month stroll past, pausing for a selfie with the glamorous goods in the windows.
Just as Americans choose their political sides the Cuban people do as well for their own reasons. Something that really stuck out, no matter which side they were on is that if nothing else changed, the average salary needs to go up. Nevertheless, whatever their political affiliation we found the Cuban people gracious, friendly and delightful to spend time with. They love meeting Americans and even if your visit with them is brief, you’ll walk away knowing one thing. Cubans are proud to be Cuban.
There were several “must-do” things on our list and The Museum of The Revolution should top your list. It’s a surreal experience as an American to tour a monument that doesn’t paint your beloved homeland in the best of lights. Although a classic study in government propaganda, I kept an open mind to grasp what their government thought about the US involvement in their revolution. It was fascinating and eye opening. Housed in the former Presidential Palace of Fulgencio Batista and seen as a symbol of corruption, the palace was a constant target of revolutionary violence and still bears the scars, it’s walls riddled with bullet holes.
The Gran Teatro de La Habana, The National Theater. Breath…officially taken. One of several government restoration projects, this spectacular edifice holds its own against all I’ve seen in America and Europe. The façade is magnificent, decorated with sculptures of marble and bronze featuring four groups of statuary representing charity, education, music and theater. Home to the famous Cuban National Ballet, her 1500 seats are just a part of this enormous building, constructed to serve as a cultural hub. Open since 1915 and now housing several rotating art galleries, a guided tour is your best bet in exploring the palatial building.
Dog lovers that we are, some research led us to The Aniplant Project, a group of animal lovers and volunteer veterinarians who exhaust every resource at their disposal to medically treat and adopt out as many dogs as they can. We packed an extra suitcase with things they simply can’t get like gauze, syringes and antiseptic. Calling upon their humble clinic we encountered a basic but spotless facility. A small colony of un-adoptable pups lives on site, headed by house dog “Cuba”. He runs the show and makes sure you know it. While our visit was brief and burdened by language, we managed to convey our gratitude for their work and theirs for our gifts. Very little words were needed for respect to be shared and a connection made evidenced by tears, shed as we left.
Many Americans long to see Cuba and many do not. At least not until their government changes.
Fielding many rumors, uncertainties and the unstable relationship the US has with Cuba we still chose to go. And while it wasn’t love at first sight, with the help of an amazing guide named Frank, we departed Cuba feeling educated, enlightened and unexpectedly changed.
Frankly, Havana…we can’t wait to see you again.
Images from Cuba
We're going places and so are our clients.